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Cooking
adds spice, flavor to life
Hundreds
of cookbooks fill columnist's home
by Meredith
Holt
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To be welcomed into the home of Andrea Hunter Halgrimson is to
enjoy the ultimate food experience. Her large kitchen with
navy blue accents is just the type of cozy workspace Halgrimson
needs to prepare her creative concoctions. Herbs, plants,
jars of spices and cans of old-fashioned Café du Monde
are arranged around the counters.
And of course there are cookbooks—more than 2,000 of them.
Bookshelves are a fixture in every room of Halgrimson’s
house in Fargo, N.D., and they are dominated by cooking books,
books about food and reference books about food.
If you are so lucky as to be invited over for lunch, perhaps
Halgrimson would make you a hearty omelet, served with salad,
pumpkin bread,
fresh strawberries and black coffee, Café du Monde of
course. She makes a delightful salad, tossed with a homemade
dressing of walnuts, walnut oil, lemon oil and Gorgonzola.
Halgrimson usually keeps two different kinds of homemade soup
in her large navy blue refrigerator, one of which is often lentil
soup. And despite the amount of cooking that occurs in her kitchen,
her oven is as clean and shiny as a brand new model. Her partner,
Sam Bernstein, takes the oven racks to Breadsmith in Fargo to
clean them using the store’s professional tools.
Not only does Halgrimson cook, but she also teaches cooking classes
and writes about her craft.
It all started with the classic “The Joy of Cooking.” Halgrimson
has six versions of the cookbook, which sparked her interested
and started what is now a massive collection. Although Halgrimson
worked in the kitchen with her mother and grandmother while growing
up, it wasn’t until she attended college at North Dakota
State University in Fargo, that her own joy of cooking blossomed.
Halgrimson keeps her different versions of “The Joy of
Cooking” on one of the many bookshelves in her warmly lit
basement—those bookshelves were built specifically to accommodate
her cookbooks. A few of her prized recipes come from “The
Joy of Cooking.” For example, she cooks the book’s
tomato aspic with gelatin and vegetables during the holidays.
Avgolemono, a Greek lemon-based soup, is another old favorite.
“This cookbook was just a revelation to me,” she
said. “And
then of course, Julia Child came along.”
Another early cookbook from Halgrimson’s library is “Great
Dinners” by former New York Times food critic and editor
Craig Claiborne. Halgrimson continues to cook Claiborne’s
steak au poivre recipe for houseguests. She also enjoys books
by Harvey Levenstein, such as “Paradox of Plenty: A Social
History of Eating in Modern America” and “Revolution
at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet.”
For 32 years, Halgrimson worked as a newspaper librarian at The
Forum in Fargo. Her hard work organizing clippings and archives
eventually allowed her the opportunity to share her food ideas
with the community. In 1987, she started writing a weekly food
column, which she continued until recently when she cut down
to two columns per month. Her columns cover a wide variety of
topics, and she is focusing more on history columns.
Halgrimson’s columns follow the seasons. For example, she
usually writes about herbs in the spring and fall. Also, she
makes a point to use products available in the Red River Valley
so recipes are accessible to everyone in the area.
Halgrimson is passionate about quality ingredients, particularly
fresh homemade bread. Her favorite place to buy bread is Breadsmith
in Fargo, whose slogan is “Hand Made. Hearth Baked.” The
staff at Breadsmith uses practices similar to those of French
bakers. She loves their Rosemary Ciabatta and Brioche. The store
offers a wide variety of bread selections, including Austrian
Pumpernickel, Blueberry Cornbread and Honey Sunflower Whole Wheat.
She said Breadsmith is the next best place to buy bread, second
only to ethnic bakeries in big cities.
Halgrimson has doled out such advice and more by teaching in
a variety of settings, including adult education at her own
home in Fargo. She gained such a good reputation that people
had to put their names on a list in order to get into her classes.
“People would hire me to cook in their homes,” she
said.
Halgrimson welcomes opportunities for sharing her knowledge and
skills. This spring, Halgrimson volunteered to speak at the Fourth
Annual Gardening Seminar at Heritage Hjemkomst Center in Moorhead.
She talked about eating and cooking herbs and flowers that grow
in the Red River Valley.
Moreover, her passion helps the community. A six-course dinner
for 10 people cooked by Halgrimson sold for a whopping $3,000
at this year’s Festival of Wreaths fundraiser auction for
the Roger Maris Cancer Center.
Fargo-Moorhead is the community in which Halgrimson has lived her whole life. “I
love North Dakota with a deep passion,” she said.
And she was determined to show author Bernard Clayton just how it’s done
in North Dakota. Clayton, who has written more than 20 books, tracked down Halgrimson
to be featured in “Cooking Across America.” The book showcases more
than 100 cooks and 250 recipes.
However, when the time came for Halgrimson to cook a meal for Clayton, the chicken
caught on fire on the balcony. Then Halgrimson’s profile and recipes show
up in the book under the section Fargo, South Dakota, not North Dakota. However,
some tasty recipes are now available as a result of that meal. The chapter on
Halgrimson includes Toasted Sunflower Seed Bread and Chocolate Chocolate Cake
with Chocolate Glaze.
Halgrimson is especially fond of chocolate. Her favorite source is Belgian Callebaut
chocolate. Her license plate is proof enough: CHOCOL8. In one of her columns
for The Forum, she writes: “Of course, it is my belief that there are few
things in this world that do not go with chocolate. Broccoli perhaps.”
In “Cooking Across America,” Clayton describes Halgrimson as “outspoken
about things she likes and outspoken about things she doesn’t,” which
couldn’t be more true. Her down-to-earth attitude adds engaging warmth
to
her
personality.
Although her roots are in Fargo, N.D., Halgrimson has done a great deal of traveling.
Each place she visits influences her cooking in the methods and the details.
One place is particularly special to Halgrimson—Provence, France. She spent
one week there in 1980 and another week in 1981 learning the art of French cooking
from Simone Beck at her farmhouse. Halgrimson said Beck’s home was like
a vineyard. “The only other place I think I could live is Provence. There’s
something that speaks to me there.”
Beck wrote “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” with Julia Child
and Louisette Bertholle, which includes recipes such as La Boeuf a la Bourguignonne
(a beef stew in red wine with bacon, onions and mushrooms). The three women later
opened a cooking school called L’Ecole des Trois Gourmandes.
In class on Fridays, they cooked crepes. “Invariably, one would end up
on the floor,” she said, adding that Beck’s small dog Iota snatched
them up and ate them. “That was his treat on Fridays.”
Halgrimson said one of Beck’s cookbooks is a favorite. “It looks
so appealing. It tells stories about the people she cooks for,” she said.
Although she hasn’t been to Norway or Italy, both places also affect her
taste. Halgrimson’s grandmother cooked traditional Norwegian dishes when
she was young. Later, by unusual means, southern Italian food became a staple
in her household.
Halgrimson’s father, G. Wilson Hunter, was a well-known obstetrician and
gynecologist for many years. One of her father’s patients while he was
in New York introduced him to Italian food. A woman named Luisa, who owned an
Italian restaurant, came to Hunter for help when she discovered her husband had
stabbed her lover. In return for patching up her paramour, Luisa cooked Italian
dishes for Hunter.
When Hunter’s wife, Phyllis, saw how much he loved Luisa’s cooking,
she picked up a couple small cookbooks to teach herself how to cook Italian food.
Phyllis cooked dishes such as biscuit tortoni, veal Parmesan, lasagna and pizza.
“She made lasagna and pizza long before people here had ever heard of pizza,” Halgrimson
said.
Other cookbooks come to her as birthday gifts, such as the one a friend bought
in Zaire. “It’s a petit bijou (little jewel) of a cookbook. It’s
a real treasure,” she said. For those of Halgrimson’s friends who
can’t travel to Africa, cookbooks tend to appear at thrift stores. Laura
Shapiro’s “Something from the Oven: Reinventing Dinner in 1950s America
and Perfection Salad,” both about cooking in the 1950s, came from thrift
stores.
It turns out Bernstein shares in his partner’s fascination with the culinary
arts. He made his own cookbook as a child, which now sits on a nightstand in
the couple’s bedroom. Teal swirls and flowers decorate the cover, the paper
is yellowed, and sauce splatters show up on the occasional page. Weinmachts Striezel
and Hot Garlic Brown Rice are two of the recipes in Bernstein’s cookbook.
“He makes a beautiful baklava,” Halgrimson said of Bernstein. And
what about his Spanish flan, made with cream and egg yolk? “It is to die
for.”
“We always argue when we’re in the kitchen together,” Halgrimson
said.
In all the ways cuisine has added to her life, perhaps the most important is
its ability to provide fun and diversion. Unfortunately, Halgrimson has endured
tragedy and difficulty throughout her life, including two bouts with cancer.
However, her outlook remains bright. Cooking, learning about cooking, reading
about cooking and writing about cooking all help enrich her life.
“I feel like I’ve been on borrowed time for so many years,” she
said. “I’m
going to do what I enjoy doing.” And she does it with a spectacular flair.
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